Beaune 1er cru, Les Reversées, 90: Two barrels, one new. Pale yellow with an intriguing nose, displaying some oak influence but still fresh and lively. Good weight, a touch of character, and fair length. Less anonymous than many white Beaunes.

Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, 92-94: Two barrels, one new. Ex Laleure Piot, on the Pernand side. The oak is dominant initially, followed by notes of banana before the true Corton-Charlemagne character emerges. Rich fruit, a hint of excessive oak, and a chiseled finish. Persistent and promising.

Beaune 1er cru, Les Teurons, 90-92: One barrel of very old vines. Glowing purple, very reductive initially. Dense fruit in the middle, with the potential for greatness once the reduction subsides. Fine acidity, dense red and black fruit.

Beaune 1er Cru, Champs Pimont, 91: Half whole bunch fermentation, typical of the Clos de la Chapelle style. Reduced, but with an appealing sweetness of fruit. Middleweight, easygoing compared to Teurons, with a finish toughened up by the reduction.

Volnay 1er Cru, En Carelle, 90-92: Badly frosted. Fresh purple, no stems, some oak, and a touch of coffee. Medium-weight red fruit overlaid by oak, accompanied by some wood tannins.

Volnay 1er Cru, Clos de la Chapelle, Monopole, 92-94: From 55-year-old vines, medium-depth purple. Light bacon fat reduction, fine, balanced, and classy. A core of classical Volnay fruit, extremely elegant, with a touch of reduction. Excellent, classy finish.

Volnay 1er Cru, Taillepieds, 92-94: Very old vines. Incredibly rich dense purple, super sumptuous nose, tight tannins, powerful, and somewhat atypical for Volnay, with a touch too much oak. Very strict, structured, and potentially fabulous.

Pommard 1er Cru, Les Chanlins, 91-93: Nearly 90-year-old vines. Four barrels made. Medium-density pink-purple, a rich sweet powerful mouthful, sumptuous yet balanced. Not especially Pommard, with restrained tannins and a stretched-out finish.

Pommard 1er Cru, Grands Epenots, 90-92: Vigorous vines, only 3 barrels. Rich purple, oaky, half whole bunch. Raw fruit with higher acidity, tighter and less expressive. Fades a bit at the back.

Corton Bressandes, Grand Cru, 92-94: Medium-deep purple, reduction again. A thread of pure and silky fruit before the metallic finish. Half whole bunch fermentation adds juiciness, with a mix of red and black fruit and a properly long finish.